The Durbar Square Affair

The summer of 2009 found me in Kathmandu working as a photographer to support the efforts of a local human rights activist. In my free time I would explore the city roaming the streets and photographing my surroundings.

It was on one such afternoon that I found myself walking down a busy street away from Kathmandu’s tourist district of Thamel. The street was wide at first, filled with cars and motorcycles, people carrying large baskets and plenty of animals. The shops were busy and you could hear vendors calling loudly to potential customers amidst the honking of car horns. The road grew narrower and the buildings older until I found myself standing at the base of a huge three-tiered pagoda-style building.

The brick base was fashioned into large steps that led up to the pagoda, which was covered in ornately carved wood. As I looked around I noticed that I was surrounded by equally fascinating buildings. This was it, I thought, Durbar Square. I had seen this place in photographs long before coming to Nepal and now I would finally get the chance to photograph it for myself. I was ecstatic.

Durbar Square, one of Kathmandu’s oldest, most fascinating gems, is located in the middle of chaotic downtown Kathmandu, between the bustling markets of the Assan district and shops peddling mobile phones and televisions on New Road. The word Durbar means palace and it was in this square that the former kings of Kathmandu were crowned and ruled over the valley. Today, the area known as Durbar Square actually comprises three distinct places: Durbar Square, Basantapur Square and the Freak Street district, all known for their iconic temples, small crowded streets, bustling markets and exceptional architecture.

As I stood taking it all in, already composing shots in my head, my thoughts were interrupted.

“Excuse me, sir?” came the voice from behind me; quiet, but loud enough that I couldn’t pretend I didn’t hear it.

I turned and saw a grinning Nepalese man standing next to me. He must have sidled up while I was busy being distracted by all the amazing temples.

“I’m a tour guide,” he explained. “My name is Rama. I see you have a camera with you — you must be a tourist. I think this is your first time to Durbar Square, yes?”

“Yes,” I replied, responding too quickly and without much thought.

“Ah, then of course you need a tour, yes? I’m a registered tour guide and can explain to you everything in Durbar Square. Things that you will not understand by yourself.”

I knew he was probably right, but I had my heart set on exploring on my own. I wanted to take my time with my camera and I didn’t think I could do that being led around by a tour guide.

“Here, look,” he said as he produced a small notebook from the breast pocket of his shirt. “I’m a very good tour guide, very experienced.”

I opened the notebook, which was filled with testimonials from other tourists that had enlisted Rama and his services in various locations across the Kathmandu Valley. As I read on, it became obvious that Rama knew a lot, and not just about Durbar Square.

“Ten dollars U.S., very reasonable,” he said.

I smiled politely and started to tell him that I wasn’t interested, but before I could even finish my sentence he dropped his price to five dollars. Again I declined and again the price dropped, this time to a mere three dollars.

“Rama,” I started, “it’s not you and it’s not the price, I’m just not interested.” With that I turned and slowly started to walk away.

“Wait, wait!” he yelled running after me. “Okay, sir. I give you the tour and after you pay what you want, okay?”

Now I admit, I’m stubborn, but I also know when I’ve been beaten; he played the game well and I couldn’t ignore that, nor did I have the energy by that point. So instead I heaved a big sigh and took a deep breath as he whisked me off to the first stop on my tour, Kasthamandap.

Three of the most interesting sights in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square are temples. On the western edge of the Square, somewhat inconspicuous, lies Kasthamandap, the starting point for all guided tours. Kasthamandap is best known as the temple that gave Kathmandu its name. Legend holds that the entire structure was built from the wood of a single tree. Not far from Kasthamandap, in the middle of the main Square, sits the towering structure of Maju Deval, the temple I first saw when I entered the Square. Built in the iconic pagoda style, Maju Deval is a great place to pass the time due to its large tiered steps and central location.

Last but certainly not least is Hanuman Dhoka, which sits on the eastern edge of Durbar Square. Hanuman Dhoka was the original royal palace of Nepal where the kings lived and ruled. Unfortunately, the Palace is not open to tourists, but it’s still easy to see most of the large structure from outside the gates, including the massive pagoda at its center.

Rama showed me these three places and many more, providing in-depth information about the history of the area and its cultural and religious significance. In the end, the tour was great; Rama was friendly, talkative and funny and he certainly knew his history and religion. He waited patiently while I took photographs, even pointing out some spots that other tourists seemed to like.

It’s certainly true that being a tourist in Durbar Square can be hugely overwhelming. Whether its officials pestering you to pay the entrance fee or tour guides hassling you for business, it’s nearly impossible to quietly wander the Square on your own. After my experience, though, I would definitely suggest enlisting the services of a guide, especially as a first-time visitor. If you should decide to return for a second or third visit, I would urge you to do so at night when its easier to blend in and observe the people on your own while enjoying some of the street food that’s widely available.

I was Rama’s last tour of the day. The sun was setting and we sat on one of the smaller temples, talking about life and Nepal. He shared his experiences with me and I explained what I was doing in Nepal and what I thought of his country. And of course I wrote in his little notebook.